Order Up is a recurring feature about a staff member’s or freelancer’s visit to a local eatery.
For more than 50 years — and with three generations of ownership — Orapax has provided delicious Greek food in an intimate environment.
Orapax, in Norfolk’s Chelsea district, offers traditional dishes such as spanakopita, chicken souvlaki, gyros and moussaka. The menu has wing, pasta, pizza and sandwich sections and plant-based alternatives for most of the regular options.
The rustic dining room is dimly lit while oversized windows let heaps of natural light in. The dark ceiling beams and tile floors give a slightly upscale look, but the wait staff in its “Everything’s betta with fetta” and “There’s Greece on my shirt” T-shirts provide a casual dining experience. Black and white photos of the building and its patrons highlight the restaurant’s deep family roots.
I started with the lavender lemonade cocktail and saganaki appetizer — both presented exquisitely. My drink, topped with lemon, blackberry and a sprig of rosemary, was light and refreshing without being too sweet; but the appetizer was the star.
The saganaki — kevalotyri (or kefalotyri) cheese battered and fried — was brought out in a mini black cast iron serving bowl, lit on fire, then put out by a squeeze of lemon.
The cheese reminded me of mozzarella with a stronger taste and it paired nicely with the tangy lemon juice. It was warm and gooey, still bubbling in the bowl.
I opted for the gyro pita and a Greek side salad for my main course — how could I not at a Greek place? I’ve eaten gyros from street stands in Athens and Orapax’s did not disappoint. The tzatziki to meat ratio was perfect and the grilled lamb and beef were flavorful. The vegetables were crisp and fresh. The pita was my favorite part. It was covered in creamy tzatziki sauce, crisp and a perfect golden brown on the outside, and soft on the inside. I was pleasantly surprised with the sizable portion of meat in my gyro, especially because it seemed to be almost all lamb.
The Greek salad was piled high with a mountain of shredded feta cheese — just the way I like it. (Though it could be overkill for those who aren’t feta fanatics.) It came with a large pepperoncini, cucumbers, red onions, tomatoes and bell peppers. The Greek dressing tasted house-made with its oil, vinegar and mix of spices. It was a bit more sour than other Greek dressings I’ve had but it paired excellently with the veggies and saltiness of the feta. I was surprised by the generous size of the salad, considering it was only a side salad.
I can’t wait to try Orapax’s other signature dishes and be transported to the ancient city of Athens.
Reach Avery Goodstine at averygoodstine@gmail.com
IF YOU GO
Where: 1300 Redgate Ave., Norfolk
Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday-Friday; noon to 10 p.m. Saturday; 2 to 9 p.m. Sunday
Details: 757-627-8041; orapaxrestaurant.com
