I used to love to head to soda fountain counters in my youth for lunch with my grandmother. These were everywhere in the 1960s and 70s, tucked inside pharmacies and department stores like Woolworths.
On hot summer days, nothing was better than sliding into one of the plush booths and having a cold plate. My grandmother, who raised me from infancy, did a remarkable job at making bound salads herself, like chicken salad, potato salad and tuna salad.
But there was something special about a cold plate at one of these small restaurants. Perhaps it was the way the salads were scooped out in perfect mounds, or the arrangement on a bed of lettuce with accouterments.
Though not a soda fountain, Sandfiddler Cafe in Norfolk’s Ocean View, owned by Jeff Cohen, has a similar charming appeal, and two delicious cold plates to enjoy.
THE EAT: CHICKEN SALAD COLD PLATE, $10.99
Though it was a hazy, hot and humid day outside, I started with a bowl of Navy Bean Soup, a special offered that day. I love bean soups, and you don’t often find them on menus. I let the soup sit for a bit, allowing it to cool off until just right, and enjoyed every bite.
The beans were plump and tender; the thick broth rich and savory. I enjoyed each spoonful as I looked over the menu for my main dish.
I was happy to find a section of cold plates, and I honed in on those for my lunch. There are two cold plates at Sandfiddler Cafe, one showcasing chicken salad, and the other offering tuna salad. I love them salads, so I had to think things through. In the long run, I opted for the chicken salad, making a mental note to return soon to try the tuna variation.
Sandfiddler Cafe’s version reminded me a lot of the chicken salad I made when I owned my catering business, An Entertaining Idea. The chicken, all white meat, was moist and tender, and cut into very large pieces. There was just enough mayonnaise to bind, and the salad was simply seasoned, allowing the real star, the chicken, to shine through. A large scoop was offered on the plate.
Alongside the chicken salad was housemade potato salad, so extremely rich and creamy that I had to slow down eating it so I could make it last. Like the chicken salad, the seasoning was muted, but perfect. It seemed to have a small amount of mustard in the mix, giving a bit of a twang. This reminded me in many ways of the potato salad that the long-closed Mike’s Colley Avenue deli offered.
A fresh fruit cup with cantaloupe, pineapple and green grapes was added to the plate, and all the components rested on a bed of chopped crisp iceberg lettuce with diced tomato and sliced cucumber.
THE DRINK: WATER
There’s coffee, tea, and soft drinks at Sandfiddler Cafe, but there’s no alcoholic beverages, so I opted for water with my meal.
Sandfiddler Cafe is at 9561 Shore Drive, Norfolk. Call 757-227-3484 or visit www.SandfiddlerCafe.com.
A LA CARTE
Congratulations to winners in the Top 10 Diners’ Choice — Best Overall Restaurants from OpenTable in the Norfolk/Virginia Beach catchment area for August. The online reservation site analyzes more than 400,000 new diner reviews. In Norfolk, Byrd and Baldwin Bros. Steakhouse came in third.
For more information visit www.OpenTable.com.
Cheers to the Natural Wine Tasting at Grandiflora Wine Garden in Chelsea. The tasting takes place from 4 until 6 p.m. Fridays, and showcases five or so natural wines at the bar. The price ranges from $15 to $20, depending on the selection. The restaurant also offers a selection of vegetarian fare.
Grandiflora Wine Garden is at 1231 Boissevain Ave., Norfolk. Call 757-256-3647 or visit www.GrandifloraWine.com.
Patrick Evans-Hylton, PatrickEvansHylton@gmail.com
