The adage that the early bird gets the worm holds true at a brunch-centric restaurant along Norfolk’s North Colley corridor.
No reservations are accepted at The Bird and folks pile in shortly after opening, grabbing one of the 35 seats inside or 25 on the patio. We went on a Sunday, the red letter day for brunch, and didn’t have to wait long before a table opened. In fact, tables seemed to turn pretty quickly, even with dishes you’ll want to linger over.
Craig Green, Daniel Worrell and Brian Zawacki combined their restaurant experience to open The Bird in October 2023.
“We wanted something we hadn’t seen in the area, a brunch spot that moonlights as a cocktail bar,” Zawacki said. “It’s a combination of our likes and areas of expertise. The goal with The Bird was to create an atmosphere that is elevated and inclusive.”
The shotgun room is inviting with tables lined against one wall and seats at the bar. There’s a cushy couch and chairs around a coffee table in the crux of two open windows that flood light into the space. Walls are a soothing charcoal and slate blue with vintage bird art as accents. Plants break up the dark palate. Folks order at a counter and grab a seat, waiting for eats and drinks to be brought to them.
We began with a couple of starters, called Peckings, including the sun-dried tomato hummus. The clay-hued hummus was drizzled with olive oil with toast points for dipping. I loved the texture of the hummus, firm and not runny, holding on to the bread between bites. It had full-on flavor from the chickpeas and the mixture of pureed tomatoes, pleasantly pungent from the dehydration. It was a delight.
We also shared the deviled eggs. Ours was perfectly pink from beet pickling, with the familiar yolk mixture crowning the cavity of each. Served on a bed of arugula, the eggs were uniquely presented orbiting a nest of fried potatoes. They were delicious. Each half had a slight piquancy with the rich creaminess of the filling. Also enjoyed was the crisp potato, taken in bites between the eggs to add textural dichotomy. In future visits, the candied bacon and Scotch eggs are on my list to try.
The menu is filled with brunch favorites as entrees, divided into Plates, Bennies, Handhelds and Lite Fare.
Look for dishes such as biscuits and gravy sammie, breakfast tacos, huevos rancheros, omelets and yogurt parfait. Zawacki said the chicken and waffles and fried chicken sandwich are two of their most popular items.
I’ve long been a fan of eggs benedict and the different incarnations that this classic dish lends itself to.
The Bird offers four Benedicts, including the smoked salmon Benedict.
Combining a traditional Benedict with another breakfast favorite, lox, two halves of a toasted English muffin are topped with smoked salmon, poached eggs and a hollandaise sauce. Capers and dill garnish the dish, which comes with a side of home fries.
Crisp muffins were the perfect platform for thin slices of salty, smoky salmon. Atop were flawless poached eggs. As I cut into each egg, the brilliant yellow yolk flowed across the plate, mixing with the tangy, velvety smooth hollandaise. Piquant capers and bright dill were foils to the richness of the dish. I enjoyed every bite.
We ordered bloody Marys, essential brunch indulgences. The mix had a nice zip and a good amount of heat. There are also a dozen classic cocktails, caffeinated cocktails and a short list of beer and wine.
Zawacki notes crowd favorites include I <3 U T. Rex, crafted with Roku gin, Falernum, Aperol, lemon and pineapple, and an espresso martini made with freshly pressed espresso.
I love a good espresso martini and will try this one on a future visit.
Five nights a week The Bird is open late, and offers drinks plus a succinct menu largely pulling from the brunch menu, but with a few other additions.
Patrick Evans-Hylton, Patrick@VirginiaEatsAndDrinks.com
__
If you go
Where: 4314 Colley Ave., Norfolk
Hours: 8 a.m. to 2 p.m., Monday and Tuesday; 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5 to 11 p.m. Wednesday to Friday; and 8 a.m. to 11 p.m. Saturday and Sunday
Prices: $7 to $12 starters (peckings); $6 to $16 (brunch classics, sandwiches, light fare)
Details: 757-937-0570, thebirdva.com
